Millésime 2019

burghound.com Allen Meadows 1er Trimestre 2022

Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine, and has done so since 1997 and is now ECO certified, briefly described the 2019 growing season as one that “was hot and dry and it began that way as even the winter was dry, which is unusual for Burgundy. Bud burst was later than in either 2018 or 2020 and while there was frost risk, we were lucky and suffered no appreciable damage. Thereafter the summer was largely hot and dry, and the combined effect was enough to induce some hydric stress in the vines though on the plus side, we basically had no disease pressure. I chose to begin picking on the 15th of September and we effectively had no sorting work as the fruit was exceptionally clean. Yields were good, though not as good as 2018, at around 35 hl/ha and the highest potential alcohol came in at 13.5% so there was no chaptalization. I used around 25% whole clusters in the fermentations, and I vinified very softly. As to the wines, they have sufficient density and fruit to permit early accessibility, but they also have the stuffing to age well over several decades if desired.” The Tortochot 2019s were bottled between July 2020 and March 2021.

2019 Bourgogne – Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection: Pretty aromas of red pinot and earth give way to delicious and nicely vibrant flavors that possess a palpable salinity on the refreshing and balanced finale. This should drink well shortly after release. 86/2023+

2019 Morey St. Denis: (mostly from Clos Solon). This is also very pinot in character with its essence of red berry fruit, spice and a hint of lavender. The sleek and equally delicious middle weight flavors possess a bit more size and weight while displaying better depth and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. This should benefit from a few years of keeping. 88/2024+

2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes: A more deeply pitched nose features notes of wild red and dark cherry, earth and whiffs of the sauvage. There is good volume to the nicely concentrated medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a rustic and youthfully austere finish that offers good if not truly special depth and persistence. This too should benefit from a few years of patience. 88/2025+

2019 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: (from Brochon). Discreet nuances of wood and menthol surround the fresh aromas of red cherry, earth and a whiff of forest floor character. The succulent, rich and slightly more concentrated medium weight flavors possess slightly better depth and persistence on the noticeably more structured mineral-inflected finale. Worth a look. 89/2027+

2019 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: (from a .86 ha parcel). Here the wood is no longer subtle though I underscore that neither is it intrusive on the slightly earthier aromas of red and dark currant along with a floral top note. The supple, succulent and seductive middle weight flavors tighten up on the more complex if less mineral-driven finale. This too is worth considering. 89/2028+

2019 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”: (from a .46 ha parcel). A hint of herbal tea floats above the ripe and fresh red currant and discreet oak toast wisps. The succulent, round and utterly delicious medium weight flavors possess a really lovely texture while exhibiting good length if only average depth on the slightly warm finish. 88/2027+

2019 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance”: (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes). Pretty and attractively layered aromas feature notes of both red and dark berries, anise, violet and a whiff of wood. There is very good intensity and vibrancy to the well-defined flavors that also possess a beguiling texture, all wrapped in a saline suffused finale. 90/2029+

2019 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). Here too there is an herbal tea top note to the layered red currant and raspberry scents that are laced with warm earth nuances. The rich and agreeably punchy middle weight flavors that delivers excellent length on the balanced finale. This attractive effort could use a bit more depth and as such I would suggest allowing this at least 5 years of bottle aging first. 91/2031+

2019 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .64 ha parcel). This is sufficiently reduced that I would strongly advise giving it a thorough aeration if you’re tempted to try a bottle young. The sleek, intense and delicious bigger-bodied flavors possess excellent verve while offering impressive persistence on the compact, tightly wound and youthfully austere finale. This should amply repay extended keeping. 92/2034+

2019 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). Once again there is a note of herbal tea to the cool aromas of red berries, the sauvage and a top note of kirsch. The delicious middle weight flavors possess an appealing mouthfeel that exudes a bracing salinity on the refreshing, youthfully austere and lingering finale that is sufficiently well-structured to reward a decade plus of keeping. 91/2031+

2019 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Sentiers”: A more elegant and slightly higher-toned red berry fruit nose displays spice and green tea nuances. The more refined and generously proportioned flavors possess a succulent mid-palate that contrasts with the firm, youthfully austere and mineral-driven finish. This is lovely and a wine that should also age well. 92/2031+

2019 Charmes-Chambertin: (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). There is enough herbal character to mention on the earthy, spicy and floral suffused red currant scented nose that is trimmed in subtle wood influence. The delicious, rich and solidly voluminous middle weight plus flavors also possess a seductive mid-palate that contrasts with the firm and lingering finish that flirts with rusticity. This could use better depth but given the underlying material and structure, it has plenty of time to develop more. 92/2034+

2019 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Haut). The wood treatment is a bit more prominent on the spicy red and dark berry aromas that flash plenty of earth and sauvage nuances. There is a bit more verve to the big-bodied, intense and muscular flavors that exude evident minerality on the balanced, palate coating and impressively long finale. Here too patience will be beneficial. 93/2034+

2019 Chambertin: (from a .39 ha parcel; 100% new wood). A moderately herbal and wood-suffused nose is comprised mostly of various red berries and just turned earth. There is excellent detail and punch on the lighter weight mineral-driven flavors that terminate in a slightly sweet finale. There is nothing amiss here, but this is both atypical and a bit curious. 91/2031+

2019 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). Moderate wood sets off an earthy mix of both red and dark currant along with an interesting hint of smoked meat. The acceptably concentrated, supple and nicely rich medium weight flavors possess both good depth and persistence on the youthfully austere finale. This will reward a decade plus of keeping yet should be reasonably approachable after only 5 to 7 years. 92/2031+

Guide Hachette des vins 2022

Fondé à Gevrey en 1865, ce domaine est régulièrement sélectionné pour ses gevrey et ses mazis-chambertin. En 1997, Chantal Michel-Tortochot (quatrième génération), ancienne contrôleuse de gestion dans l'industrie bourguignonnne, a repris les vignes famliliales, un beau parcellaire de 12 ha (dont 10% de grands crus et autant de 1ers crus), certifiés bio depuis 2013.