Domaine Tortochot, Propriétaire à Gevrey Chambertin, Bourgogne
Domaine Tortochot à Gevrey Chambertin en Bourgogne

Millésime 2020

Vinous Neal Martin - Tasting in London - January 2022

Tortochot 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru has a beautiful nose with very delineated blackberry and raspberry fruit, rose petal and light cedar scents, focused and full of class. The palate is well-defined, quite strict and the entry, good tension with a touch of black pepper towards the persistent finish. Very fine, even if not within the top ranking Chambertins in this vintage. Drink 2025-2045 - (92-94)

Tortochot 2020 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2020 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, black truffe and light pencil shaving scents. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine depth, a little firm and peppery towards the finish, but this shows much better delineation than Tortochot's Premier Crus. Drink 2025-2045 - (91-93)

Tortochot 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru is a step up in quality over the Morey Aux Charmes with mineral-driven red fruit, fine tension and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little oaky with hints of brown spice towards the finish that does not display the sophistication of the aromatics. Not bad, but could be better. Drink 2024-2035 - (88-90)

Tortochot 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru has an earthy, autumnal bouquet with brown leaves filtering through the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite compact yet with decent focus on the finish. All that is missing is just a bit of flair. Drink 2024-2035 - (87-89)

Tortochot 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru has a slightly leafy bouquet, again, quite earthy and needing a little more fruit intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with dusty tannins, dark berry fruit, slightly bitter with some attenuation on the finish. Drink 2024-2032 - (86-88)

Tortochot 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a simple, slightly earthy bouquet where I am seeking a little more fruit. The palate is better with tart red cherries on the entry, though overall, I am looking for more density and structure for a Morey Village. Drink 2023-2028 - 86

Jancis Robinson MW - January 2022

Goedhuis's 2020 burgundies

The first tasting of London’s Burgundy Week last week was also the most comprehensive. When we saw that Goedhuis & Co planned to show a total of more than 250 wines at their Bermondsey offices, we decided it was a two-person job.

Andy Howard MW and I decided to split the task alphabetically by producer (sur)name, as you will see below, and skipped wines that we had already tasted elsewhere. Andy comments, ‘it was a pleasure to be able to taste such a wide range of wines at the Goedhuis tasting. Goedhuis has a well-deserved reputation as one of the UKs leading Burgundy specialists and had pulled out all the stops to make the tasting work. The tasting confirmed the quality and appeal of the 2020s, with many wines hinting at great futures as well as (relatively) early enjoyment. The tasting [which usually takes place at the handsome Philip Mould gallery in St James’s] was switched to Goedhuiss offices with a restricted attendance but this all felt well-organised and as COVID-secure as it could be. Open windows certainly allowed plenty of fresh air in, while keeping the samples (and the tasters) fresh!

Thanks to the quirks of Burgundian nomenclature, our alphabetical split meant that I tasted mainly white wines and Andy the majority of the reds. Since the whites are the most consistently exciting of the 2020 burgundies, I was especially pleased that Goedhuis had decided to show so many whites. I have already enthused about the particularly precise and well-priced Chassagnes of Coffinet-Duvernay in my last wines of the week article. But there were some stunning whites from a wide array of producers (as you see easily if you choose to sort these tasting notes by score, bearing in mind how mean I am with my scores).

Goedhuis are particularly strong on Chablis and I enjoyed many a wine from Jean-Paul Droin and William Fèvre. We didn’t taste the Billaud-Simon wines shown at Goedhuis because Julia tasted them as part of the Faiveley portfolio (we published her tasting notes here). And unfortunately the Pommier Chablis slipped through the cracks – all too easy with so many wines, so many tasters, and a tasting sheet in a different order from the one we were working from.

Andy has been a bit more generous with his scores than tight-fisted me and found many reds worthy of 17 and 17.5. The reds of Ghislaine Barthod are hugely popular and in 2020 were very popular with me too. I also found those of Chandon de Briailles more impressive than usual, and it was interesting to see Goedhuis, and Andy, embracing the wines of Chantal Tortochot.

I mentioned my enthusiasm for many a Marsannay yesterday in the context of the Stannary/Flint tasting. Goedhuis’s Charles Audoin wines were especially impressive, for both quality and value. David Roberts MW, Goedhuis’s Burgundy buyer, assured me that a turning point was reached when a new cellar was constructed in 2014. This is definitely a producer worth following – a red-wine answer to Coffinet-Duvernay?

The 144 wines below are grouped by colour then listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name but you can change this using the menu below.

Dom Tortochot 2020 Morey-St-Denis

Just a little sour on the palate, fruit a little wiry and grippy. Not the most expensive wine on show but feels a little stripped. (AWH). Drink 2023 - 2028 - 15

Dom Tortochot, Aux Charmes Premier Cru 2020 Morey-St-Denis

Cask sample. Better balance than the village Morey. Plenty of sweet fruit here to balance the tannin and a hint of bitterness. Juicy, bit of grip, nice freshness to finish. (AWH). Drink 2023 - 2032 - 16

Dom Tortochot, Lavaut St-Jacques Premier Cru 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin

Cask sample. Elegant, classy wine with fine structure, good acid and tannin framework. Not over-sweet but all the better for that. Will age very nicely. (AWH). Drink 2024 - 2034 -17 +

Dom Tortochot, Champeaux Premier Cru 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin

Cask sample. Plush, lovely dark-fruit characters. Touch of wildness here. Intriguing, complex and lots of purity on the palate. Fine premier cru Gevrey. (AWH). Drink 2024 -2036 - 17 +

Dom Tortochot, Grand Cru 2020 Mazis-Chambertin

Cask sample. Fine, great balance here between the ripe fruit characters, fine tannin and excellent acidity. Doesn't suffer from any excessive over-sweetness but balances the ripeness of the vintage with freshness and concentration. Will age very well. (AWH). Drink 2023 -2040 - 17.5 ++

Dom Tortochot, Grand Cru 2020 Chambertin

Cask sample. Deep colour. Intense, regal character. Clearly grand cru quality. Lovely sweetness of fruit on the palate but this is ripeness of fruit, allied with purity and freshening acidity which keeps everything in perfect balance. (AWH). Drink 2024 -2040 - 18 ++

Guide Hachette des vins 2023

Sélection du Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin 2020 1 étoile Situées au cœur du Grand Cru sur 42 ares, les vignes de Mazis du Domaine sont âgées de près de 70 ans. Elles livrent un vin à la solide structure tannique et d’une belle persistance. Une matière mise en valeur par un bon bouse toaste (élevage de 15 mois en fût), qui ne masque pas pour autant les arômes de fruits noirs et d’épices.

Domaine Tortochot - 12 rue de l'Eglise - 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin - Tél. 03 80 34 30 68
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