Millésime 2020

Falstaff magazine

2020 Domaine Tortochot Chambertin Grand Cru: Red wine - Pinot noir - 98
2020 Domaine Tortochot Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru: Red wine - Pinot noir - 98
2020 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux-St-Jacques: Red wine - Pinot noir - 96
2020 Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champaux: Red wine - Pinot noir - 95
2020 Domaine Tortochot Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Aux Charmes: Red wine - Pinot noir - 94
2020 Domaine Tortochot Morey St Denis: Red wine - Pinot noir - 93
2020 Gevrey-Chambertin AOC Les Jeunes Rois: Red wine - Pinot noir - 89

burghound.com Allen Meadows 1er Trimestre 2023

Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

 

2020	Bourgogne - Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection	red	87
2020	Chambertin Grand Cru	red	95
2020	Chambolle-Musigny “Les Sentiers” 1er	red	93
2020	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	93
2020	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	red	95
2020	Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes	red	88
2020	Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er	red	93
2020	Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”	red	90
2020	Gevrey-Chambertin «Les Corvées»	red	88
2020	Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois"	red	89
2020	Gevrey-Chambertin «Lavaut St Jacques» 1er	red	92
2020	Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	94
2020	Morey Saint Denis	red	88
2020	Morey St Denis “1er - Cuvée Renaissance” 1er	red	91
2020	Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes” 1er	red	90

Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine that is now ECO certified, briefly described the 2020 growing season as one that “was much like 2018 and 2019 in that it hot and dry and it began that way as even the winter was dry, which is unusual for Burgundy. Happily there was zero disease pressure though there was some hydric stress in the young vines who have less well-developed root systems. The fruit from those vines was sometimes wilted and had to be eliminated. We picked from the 29th of August and brought in exceptionally clean fruit that ripened more by the effects of concentration, which helped to preserve acid levels. Yields were in the 38 hl/ha range with potential alcohols that were very reasonable at between 12.6 to 12.8%. With the exception of the Sentiers, I used around 25% whole clusters during the vinifications and with which I had no problems with them finishing their sugars. As to the wines, they’re atypical yet very interesting as they are ripe yet extremely fresh, concentrated and balanced and are very definitely built for long keeping.” The Tortochot 2020s were bottled between July 2021 and March 2022 and with the exception of the Les Corvées, I found much to like and in particular, the sublime Chambertin and Clos de Vougeot are outstanding as are the Sentiers and Champeaux.

2020 Bourgogne – Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection: Deeply colored. A very fresh if decidedly ripe nose speaks mostly of red berries and earth where the latter is picked up by the racy, detailed and utterly delicious middleweight flavors that terminate in a rustic, refreshing and sneaky long finish. This is very good for its level. 87/2024+

2020 Morey St. Denis: (mostly from Clos Solon). A slightly riper nose is still quite fresh, and blends notes of red currant, anise and a floral top note. There is again very good energy to the detailed and appealingly textured medium weight flavors that offer a bit more depth and persistence on the dusty and noticeably firmer finale. 88/2027+

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes: There is just enough reduction present to blur the nuances of the sauvage-inflected dark berry fruit aromas. Here too there is excellent verve to the delineated medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a rustic and youthfully austere finale that would benefit from developing better depth. 88/2028+

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: (from Brochon). This is also sufficiently reduced to overshadow what is clearly ripe fruit. Otherwise, there is excellent intensity and freshness to the impressively dense and beautifully detailed middleweight flavors that terminate in a compact, serious and youthfully austere finale. This appears to possess excellent development potential and I would suggest buying it with that in mind as it’s not likely to make for especially interesting early drinking. 89/2028+

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: (from a .86 ha parcel). This is very firmly reduced with something not entirely clean lurking in the background (not TCA). By contrast, there is again excellent concentration to the velvet textured mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the rustic but beautifully persistent, firm and built-to-age finish. This is difficult to judge as I don’t know whether the nose will clean up or not so my rating offers the benefit of the doubt. 88?/2030+

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”: (from a .46 ha parcel). A fresh, cool and airy nose speaks of ripe red and dark currant, just turned earth and a hint of the sauvage. I very much like the texture of the seductive medium weight flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the lingering and balanced finish that is shaped by fine-grained tannins. This is lovely and well worth considering. 90/2028+

2020 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance”: (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes). An exuberantly fresh nose freely offers up its airy aromas of essence of red cherry, violet and a suggestion of exotic tea. The noticeably finer, indeed almost delicate, texture of the middleweight flavors contrasts markedly with the markedly firm and youthfully austere finale that also exudes a subtle minerality. Lovely and understated and a wine that should easily repay a decade plus of keeping. 91/2032+

2020 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). Much earthier aromas consist mostly of various red berries lead to supple, caressing and seductively textured medium weight flavors that deliver fine length though not the refinement or complexity. Even so, I suspect that this will evolve well over the mid-term and could make for interesting early drinking. 90/2030+

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .64 ha parcel). Once again there is enough reduction present to warrant a thorough aeration if you’re going to try a bottle young. There is by contrast excellent freshness and intensity to the bigger-bodied, powerful and tautly muscular flavors that conclude in a very firm, compact and moderately austere finale. This robust, even bold, effort is extremely promising but a wine that’s going to absolutely require extended patience. 92/2035+

2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). This is the first wine to display any appreciable oak influence and even here it’s subtle on the riper aromas of plum, cassis and plenty of sauvage character. The sleek, vibrant and markedly mineral-driven flavors are not nearly as powerful, but they are notably finer while delivering excellent length on the less structured though still quite firm finale. Lovely and also well worth considering. 93/2032+

2020 Chambolle-Musigny “Les Sentiers”: (100% whole cluster vinification). A wonderfully fresh and airy nose willingly reveals the pretty essence of red cherry, raspberry, anise and a plethora of floral elements. The beautifully delineated and tautly muscular medium-bodied flavors possess a refined mouthfeel thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the balanced, sneaky long and stony finale. This is a very fine Sentiers that should age effortlessly yet it’s not so backward that it could be reasonably approached after 7 to 8 years if you don’t feel like waiting for full maturity. 93/2032+

2020 Charmes-Chambertin: (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). A brooding and much more reserved nose grudgingly gives up its aromas of both red and dark currant, the sauvage and freshly turned earth, all of which is trimmed in subtle wood influence. There is again good verve and richness to the moderately concentrated middleweight flavors that also possess a refined texture that carries over to the youthfully austere, firm and lingering finale. This could use better depth though more should progressively develop with time in bottle. 93/2032+

2020 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Haut). Moderate wood stops short of fighting with the very ripe yet still fresh and cool aromas of wild dark cherry, violet and plenty of sauvage and humus-inflected earth scents. There is outstanding richness to the succulent, palate soaking and seductively textured larger-bodied flavors that flash excellent power on the impressively long finish where the only nit is a touch of warmth. 94/2035+

2020 Chambertin: (from a .39 ha parcel; 100% new wood). A pungent nose is presently comprised by reduction and wood. More interesting are the beautifully delineated and almost aggressively mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that are at once caressing yet powerful while exhibiting super length on the chiseled finish. This beautifully well-balanced and very classy Chambertin should age effortlessly for several decades as it’s clearly built for it. 95/2035+

2020 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). Here too moderate wood frames the elegant, ripe and airy aromas of red and dark currant, warm earth and a subtle spice and floral wisps. There is superb density, volume and power to the muscular broad-shouldered flavors that conclude in a serious, compact and very much built-to-age finale. This isn’t as classy or refined as the Chambertin but it’s more complex and just as impressive. 95/2037+

Vinous Neal Martin - Tasting in London - January 2022

Tortochot 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2020 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, black truffe and light pencil shaving scents. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine depth, a little firm and peppery towards the finish, but this shows much better delineation than Tortochot's Premier Crus. Drink 2025-2045 - (91-93)

Tortochot 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru is a step up in quality over the Morey Aux Charmes with mineral-driven red fruit, fine tension and focus. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little oaky with hints of brown spice towards the finish that does not display the sophistication of the aromatics. Not bad, but could be better. Drink 2024-2035 - (88-90)

Tortochot 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru has an earthy, autumnal bouquet with brown leaves filtering through the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite compact yet with decent focus on the finish. All that is missing is just a bit of flair. Drink 2024-2035 - (87-89)

Tortochot 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru has a slightly leafy bouquet, again, quite earthy and needing a little more fruit intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with dusty tannins, dark berry fruit, slightly bitter with some attenuation on the finish. Drink 2024-2032 - (86-88)

Tortochot 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a simple, slightly earthy bouquet where I am seeking a little more fruit. The palate is better with tart red cherries on the entry, though overall, I am looking for more density and structure for a Morey Village. Drink 2023-2028 - 86

Jancis Robinson MW - January 2022

Goedhuis's 2020 burgundies

The first tasting of London’s Burgundy Week last week was also the most comprehensive. When we saw that Goedhuis & Co planned to show a total of more than 250 wines at their Bermondsey offices, we decided it was a two-person job.

Andy Howard MW and I decided to split the task alphabetically by producer (sur)name, as you will see below, and skipped wines that we had already tasted elsewhere. Andy comments, ‘it was a pleasure to be able to taste such a wide range of wines at the Goedhuis tasting. Goedhuis has a well-deserved reputation as one of the UK’s leading Burgundy specialists and had pulled out all the stops to make the tasting work. The tasting confirmed the quality and appeal of the 2020s, with many wines hinting at great futures as well as (relatively) early enjoyment. The tasting [which usually takes place at the handsome Philip Mould gallery in St James’s] was switched to Goedhuis’s offices with a restricted attendance but this all felt well-organised and as COVID-secure as it could be. Open windows certainly allowed plenty of fresh air in, while keeping the samples (and the tasters) fresh!’

Thanks to the quirks of Burgundian nomenclature, our alphabetical split meant that I tasted mainly white wines and Andy the majority of the reds. Since the whites are the most consistently exciting of the 2020 burgundies, I was especially pleased that Goedhuis had decided to show so many whites. I have already enthused about the particularly precise and well-priced Chassagnes of Coffinet-Duvernay in my last wines of the week article. But there were some stunning whites from a wide array of producers (as you see easily if you choose to sort these tasting notes by score, bearing in mind how mean I am with my scores).

Goedhuis are particularly strong on Chablis and I enjoyed many a wine from Jean-Paul Droin and William Fèvre. We didn’t taste the Billaud-Simon wines shown at Goedhuis because Julia tasted them as part of the Faiveley portfolio (we published her tasting notes here). And unfortunately the Pommier Chablis slipped through the cracks – all too easy with so many wines, so many tasters, and a tasting sheet in a different order from the one we were working from.

Andy has been a bit more generous with his scores than tight-fisted me and found many reds worthy of 17 and 17.5. The reds of Ghislaine Barthod are hugely popular and in 2020 were very popular with me too. I also found those of Chandon de Briailles more impressive than usual, and it was interesting to see Goedhuis, and Andy, embracing the wines of Chantal Tortochot.

I mentioned my enthusiasm for many a Marsannay yesterday in the context of the Stannary/Flint tasting. Goedhuis’s Charles Audoin wines were especially impressive, for both quality and value. David Roberts MW, Goedhuis’s Burgundy buyer, assured me that a turning point was reached when a new cellar was constructed in 2014. This is definitely a producer worth following – a red-wine answer to Coffinet-Duvernay?

The 144 wines below are grouped by colour then listed alphabetically by producer (sur)name but you can change this using the menu below.

Dom Tortochot 2020 Morey-St-Denis

Guide Hachette des vins 2023

Sélection du Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin 2020 1 étoile
Situées au cœur du Grand Cru sur 42 ares, les vignes de Mazis du Domaine sont âgées de près de 70 ans. Elles livrent un vin à la solide structure tannique et d’une belle persistance. Une matière mise en valeur par un bon bouse toaste (élevage de 15 mois en fût), qui ne masque pas pour autant les arômes de fruits noirs et d’épices.