Jahrgang 2009

The quaterly review Burghound.com January 2012
Allen Meadows 1st quarter 2012 dated of January 2012
Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

 

2009 Chambertin Grand Cru - red - 95
2009 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru - red - 93
2009 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru - red - 94
2009 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru - red - 93
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Champeaux" 1er - red - 91
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes" - red - 90
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Corvées" - red - 89
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois" - red - 89
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaut St. Jacques" 1er - red - 92
2009 Morey St. Denis - red - 88
2009 Morey St. Denis "Aux Charmes" 1er - red - 91

 

Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine, described 2009 as a "classic vintage. The winter was cold and July was rainy but otherwise, it was pretty much a perfect growing season. There was some threat of rot in early September but the north wind arrived to completely dry it out. We began picking on the 12 th of September and brought in veryclean fruit that required almost no sorting. Sugars were excellent and I chaptalized on average .5% but some wines needed none. I destemmed 100% and otherwise did my normal vinification. One of the interesting aspects of the 2009 vintage is that the wines have tasted good since the very beginning and this included before the malos were completed. They should age well but have that wonderful benefit of being approachable young." The Tortochot wines are relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do evidence noticeable wood when the wines are young. (Simon N Cellars, www.simonncellars.com, Charlottesville, VA, Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa CA, P.Comms International, www.pcommswines.com, Ashville, NC and T. Edwards Wine, New York; Waitrose, Waterloo and Fineand Rare, all UK).

 

Tortochot indicated that her '09s were bottled between September, 2010 and March, 2011

 

 

2009 Morey St. Denis:
(from a .46 ha parcel). A pretty yet entirely serious nose of red pinot fruit with plenty of pungent Morey style ferrous earth nuances that also characterize the intense, pure and energetic medium-bodied flavors that possess good length on the linear finish. A solid if not truly distinguished villages. 88/2015+

 

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois":
(from a .54 ha parcel). This offers a step up in aromatic complexity with alayered and attractively pure and ripe red pinot fruit nose that is liberally laced with stone and earth touches. There is good richness, intensity and delineation to the precise, energetic and impressively persistent flavors that possess plenty of mouth coating dry extract. This moderately firm effort is a very fine villages and well worth considering. 89/2016+

 

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Corvées":
(from a .86 ha parcel). A discreet touch of wood sets off an attractive nose of ripered pinot fruit, warm earth and a hint of the sauvage that also characterizes the rich, transparent and nicely voluminousmedium-bodied flavors. This well-balanced effort culminates in a mouth coating and moderately austere finish that displays outstanding length for a wine of its level. 89/2016+

 

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Champs Perriers Vieilles Vignes":
(from a .46 ha parcel). This is even earthier and moreobviously Gevrey in character with a deeply pitched and pungently sauvage dark berry fruit nose. There is excellent concentration to the mouth coating, somber and very serious flavors that terminate in an overtly austere finish. This should be excellent if given 6 to 8 years of cellar time. 90/2017+

 

2009 Morey St. Denis "Aux Charmes":
(from a .23 ha parcel). Here the expressive nose is also quite earthy with distinctly ripe yet reasonably fresh red currant and plum aromas leading to intense, mouth coating and quite serious medium weight flavors that culminate in a powerful and balanced effort that delivers excellent length. This is not an especially elegant wine, indeed the supporting structure is borderline rustic yet there is plenty of character and punch. Worth a look if you're looking for an ageworthy and robust 1er. 91/2019+

 

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaut St. Jacques":
(from a .64 ha parcel). A background touch of wood highlights a broodingand very deeply pitched mineral-inflected nose of dark berry fruit liqueur aromas that also display hints of earth and humus. The exceptionally rich, full-bodied and powerful flavors possess fine concentration and volume on the mouth coating and moderate austere finish where the wood resurfaces. This should be excellent in time though note that this should require a minimum of 12 years to arrive at its peak. 92/2021+ 

 

2009 Gevrey-Chambertin "Champeaux":
(from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). In contrast to the brooding nose ofthe Lavaut, this is actually quite expressive with ripe but relatively fresh and cool aromas of an array of red berry fruit aromas that are liberally laced with stone and underbrush notes. There is very fine intensity to the concentrated and extract-rich medium-bodied flavors that despite the suave mouth feel exhibit fine delineation on the intense, long and chewy finish. This is very firmly structured and will need ample time to come together. 91/2021+ 

 

2009 Charmes-Chambertin:
(from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). A relatively elegant nose of cool, pure and beautifully layered nose features notes of red pinot fruit, smoked tea and subtle toast notes. There is fine definition to the large-scaled, intense and solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess real power, size and weight before culminating in a serious and impressively long finish where a touch of wood resurfaces. 93/2024+

 

2009 Mazis-Chambertin:
(from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Haut). A distinctly different aromatic profile presents itself here and it is already more complex with a mix of sauvage, earth, red currant and dark berry fruit notes. There is outstanding intensity and power to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration as well as a high level of phenolic maturity to the firm tannic spine, all wrapped in an explosive, long and well-balanced finish. Like the Charmes, this is a most impressive effort but one that will require 12 to 15 years in the cellar. 93/2021+

 

2009 Chambertin:
(from a .40 ha parcel). A ripe yet restrained, cool and surprisingly airy given the nature of the vintage displays a highly complex nose of red currant, blue berry, dark berries and ample minerality that continues onto the relatively accessible medium weight plus flavors that possess a plenitude of mouth coating dry extract. This is gorgeously, indeed almost painfully intense with explosive power to the austere and driving finish. This does a slow but inexorable build from the mid-palate and despite all of the muscle, this is actually a wine of balance and refinement. Most impressive. 95/2027+

 

2009 Clos de Vougeot:
(from a .21 ha parcel). Soft wood notes set off ripe aromas of red pinot fruit that are laced withstrong earth and underbrush nuances plus a hint of forest floor. The powerful, intense, rich and seriously concentrated bigbodied flavors possess excellent size, weight and muscle before terminating in a tightly wound, explosive and notably austere finish that goes on and on. This is an excellent and impressively ageworthy effort though note that at present it is more than just a little introverted. 94/2027+

 

 

Guide Hachette 2012
36000 vins ont été dégustés à l'aveugle par des jurys d'experts, 10000 vins ont été retenus, 450 coups de coeur ont été attribués cette année aux cuvées les plus remarquables

 

Domaine Tortochot Gevrey Vieilles Vignes Champerrier 2009
Chantal Tortochot s'est lancée : depuis le millésime 2009, son vignoble est officiellement en conversion vers l'agriculture biologique. En 2008, elle avait laissé le souvenir d'une vigneronne usant de retenue pour laisser parler son terroir; sur le millésime 2009 elle n'aime pas davantage les vins hyper concentrés et joue une autre partition : macération à froid de cinq jours (2 à 3 jours de moins que les collègues) et cuvaison de quinze jours seulement.
Et son vin de paraitre fin, floral et élégant, égayé par des notes atypiques mais plaisantes de clou de girofle.

 

Domaine Tortochot Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin 2009
Coup de coeur recompense ce vin remarquable
Chantal Tortochot, ancienne cadre en entreprise devenue vigneronne sur le tard possède 42 ares de vieilles vignes de cinquante ans (cultivées en bio en attente de conversion) en Mazis Chambertin.
Elle signe un vin superbe, à la robe grenat profond, au nez intense de moka et de fruits noirs tonifié par une touche minérale.
La bouche est éclatante, fruitée, boisée, mais sans lourdeur ni excès tannique. Au contraire, de beaux tanins ronds viennent épauler la matière généreuse, charnue, riche et complexe, qui sera à son apogée dans cinq ou six ans.

 

 

Gault Millau 2012

 

Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 :
Note : 17/20
Ce chambertin est un gros bébé qu'il ne faut pas réveiller tout de suite. Capricieux, il ne se livre pas facilement ; le nez se cantonne à quelques fragrances de griottes, qu'un élevage luxueux accompagne. Le volume de bouche est à la mesure de l'année et du cru, mais l'assise tannique bride aujourd'hui le plaisir. Patience !
Nez : fruité, boisé, floral
Bouche : Rouge puissant, tannique

 

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 :
Note : 17/20
Ce mazis annonce toute sa dimension par un nez éblouissant de cerises juteuses, de pivoine, de rose fanée, avec une légère note toastée très agréable. Le velouté de bouche est superbe ; la virilité du cru est tempérée par une matière onctueuse. L'ensemble est long, très long.
Nez : fruité, boisé, floral, empyreumatique
Bouche : Rouge velouté, charnu

 

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champeaux 2009 :
Note : 16/20 : Bon rapport qualité-prix
Cru d'exception, millésime d'exception... Vous connaîtrez la suite en plongeant votre nez au-dessus de ce champeaux séducteur en tous points. Le nez est superbe, sur les fleurs séchées, le noyau, la griotte, avec une légère empreinte boisée. Aussi suave que parfumée, la bouche ne connait aucune faille.
Bouche : Rouge velouté, charnu

 

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux-Saint-Jacques 2009 :
Note : 16/20 : Bon rapport qualité-prix
Voici un autre cru brillamment vinifié par le domaine, cette année. Celui-ci gagne en virilité par rapport aux autres, avec des notes d'argile, de cerises noires, de roses séchées. La bouche est ferme et profonde à la fois, avec une belle allonge sur la peau de cassis.
Nez : fruité, boisé, floral, végétal
Bouche : Rouge velouté, charnu

 

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées 2009 :
Note : 15,5/20 : Bon rapport qualité-prix
Excellent pour son rapport prix-plaisir ! Ce gevrey Les Corvées est une bombe de cerises griottes relevées d'épices douces et d'un tempérament affirmé. Son côté juteux, en bouche, le hisse au niveau d'autres crus parfois plus onéreux.
Nez : fruité, boisé, epicé
Bouche : Rouge velouté, charnu

 

Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier 2009 :
Note : 14,5/20 : Bon rapport qualité-prix
Voici un gevrey très épuré, aux notes de fleurs séchées, de géranium et de cerises griottes. Rien de moderne en vinification, mais une patte assez traditionaliste qui respecte une matière en demi-corps, avec une finale salivante autour de baies acidulées.
Nez : fruité, boisé, végétal
Bouche : Rouge velouté, charnu