Jahrgang 2005

Guide Hachette des vins 2009
36000 vins dégustés à l'aveugle - 6500 producteurs sélectionnés

 

Domaine Tortochot - Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2005
Paul, Felix, Gabriel et aujourd'hui Chantal, les Tortochot sont vignerons à Gevrey depuis plus d'un sècle. Un 2005 carmin moyen, pur et attrayant. Petite note animale qui invite à le carafer. Moins giboyeux ensuite, plein de force et de chaleur, il termine sur une touche réglissée. Un vin bien en place, à attendre encore trois ans.

 

Quaterly Review Burghound.com - Allan Meaddows - Janvier 2008

 

2005	Bourgogne	red	84
2005	Chambertin Grand Cru	red	94
2005	Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	92
2005	Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru	red	92
2005	Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru	red	93
2005	Gevrey-Chambertin “Champeaux” 1er	red	91
2005	Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”	red	89
2005	Gevrey-Chambertin «Les Jeunes Rois»	red	87
2005	Gevrey-Chambertin «Lavaut St Jacques» 1er	red	90
2005	Morey Saint Denis	red	88
2005	Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes 1er	red	89

 

For readers who may be unfamiliar with Domaine Tortochot this approximately 11 ha domaine is now operated and managed by Chantal Tortochot-Michel. The wines are relatively old school in terms of stylo and structure though they do see plenty of wood at the Grand cru level, witch is to say 100%. Mme TORTOCHOT told me that she was very happy with the way her 2005s had turned out and I have to agree wholeheartedly as I was quite impressed. It’s clear that quality is on the upswing here and this is a domaine worth following. Moreover, given the extremely reasonable prices the wines typically sell for, they are bargains, a descriptor one rarely hears uttered in the same breath with Côte de Nuits grand cru. (A French Paradox, Huntington Beach. CA Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA and P Comm’s, Asheville, NC: Berry Bros UK).

Tortochot indicated that her 05s were bottled between November, 2006 and February 2007.

 

2005 Bourgogne: (the first vintage). The nose is remarkably ripe for surch young vines with a mix of both red and black pinot fruit that introduces earthy medium-bodied flavors that are distinctly rustic but with good character. The depth is limited but the quality is certainly correct. 84/2009+.

 

2005 Morey St Denis: Also quite ripe with a lovely mix of red and blue pinot fruit, violets, earth and a hint of underbrush that is picked by the rich, sweet and equally ripe flavors that possess excellent volume on the mouth coating, firm and dusty finish that delivers plenty of punch. 88/2011+.

 

2005 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: An admirably pure nose features almost entirely black fruits and cassis that also reflects background notes of floral hints, earth and Gevrey animale that slides into very firmly structured but not aggressive flavors that culminate in a sappy and palate staining finish supported by very firm tannins but limited depth. This will require a few years of cellar time first. 87/2012+.

 

2005 Gevrey Chambertin “Les Corvées”: An intensely earthy nose that is very Gevrey in style and character displays pretty red berry fruit, underbrush and hints of iron and minerals that precede the quite serious, chewy, indeed almost chunky flavors that possess impressive power, muscle and punch if not much elegance. If you like old school Gevrey, or would like to team what they were once like, this does a respectable job of imitating one. In sum, a high quality villages. 89/2013+.

 

2005 Morey Saint-Denis “Aux Charmes” : As one would reasonably expect, this is materially more elegant but also entirely serious with a pretty mix of red, black and blue pinot fruit aromas nuanced by hints of earth and a bit of wood spice that continues onto the rich, full and powerful flavours. Indeed this is unusually powerful for an Aux Charmes as the character is more what its name suggests, e.g agreeable and round rathor than robust and muscled. The finish coats the mouth with chewy tannins and while this is well made and balanced, it won’t be for everyone as it’s old style Morey. 89/2013+.

 

2005 Gevrey –Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: Noticeable if not flattening reduction detracts mildly from the cool red berry fruit and mineral aromas though I would suggest decanting this for 30 minutes first should you decide to open one young. The equally cool mineral-infused flavors are serious and moderately structured on the balanced and firm finish. Lovely. 90/2015+.

 

2005 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champeaux”: (40+ year old vines). A completely different and very seductive red and blue berry fruit nose combines with obvious earth, minerality and violet aromas that give way to textured and admirably concentrated medium full-bodied flavors that really coat and stain the palate with sap. There is a very ripe tannic spine with a mildly rustic mouth feel and plenty of muscle and punch. This is very impressive but be prepared to be patient. 91/20017+.

 

2005 Charmes-Chambertin: (100% from Charmes proper). Discreet but not invisible wood frames a ripe nose of blue and red pinot fruit that offers up notes of natural spice, underbrush, earth and a hint of violets that dissolve into equally earthy, serious and intensely sauvage big-bodied flavors that culminate in a robust and muscled finish that delivers excellent length. This is a big Charmes. Indeed it could easily pass for a Mazoyènes 92/2017+.

 

2005 Mazy-Chambertin: (from Mazis-Haut). An impressively ripe nose that does not display any notes of surmaturité features mostly wild dark berry fruit aromas and ample pungent earth notes that merge seamlessly into rich, full and sweet flavors that possess excellent volume and real drive on the strikingly long finish. This is just a touch woody but there’s a good chance that this will fully integrate in time as this is a serious, concentrated and structured old school burg. 93/2019+.

 

2005 Chambertin: Here there is also noticeable if not dominant wood spice that frames the admirably elegant, restrained and very pure, cool and almost airy red berry fruit and intense earth notes that grandly introduce the big-bodied, powerful and mineral-driven flavors that possess strikingly good definition and punch on the austere and stunningly long finish. This too is a bit oaky at present but there is really impressive underlying material. Bravo. 94/2020+.

 

2005 Clos de Vougeot: Here the nose is a bit more expressive with a discreet application of wood spice highlighting the earth and underbrush-suffused ripe dark berry aromas that precede the rich, intense and downright massive full-bodied flavors that culminate in a linear and youthfully austere finish that goes on and on. Like the Charm, this is a huge wine that is built to age for the long haul so don’t go here if you don’t have the patience to wait. 92/2020+.

 

Guide de La Revue du Vin de France 2008
Vins sélectionnés par Olivier Poussier, meilleur sommelier du monde 2000, Antoine Gerbelle, Olivier Poels.
Une sélection de 1200 meilleurs domaines français.

 

Chantal TORTOCHOT est revenue au Domaine en 1996 et elle s'oriente peu à peu depuis 2003 vers la culture biologique. Le collage et la filtration ont été supprimés à partir de 1999. Du coup, les vins ont bien progressé ces dernières années gommant les irrégularités du passé. Ils possèdent un style franc et un joli fruit. Comme ils sont vendus à des prix tout à fait raisonnables, cette adresse est parfaitement recommandable aux amateurs en quête de bonnes affaires.

 

Les vins : parcelle test en culture bio
Le Gevrey Les Corvées est un joli vin élégant et frais. Les Lavaux comme les Champeaux sont denses et compacts, relativement extraits et méritent de se reposer en cave, tout comme les Charmes Chambertin. Le soyeux se trouve en revanche dans le beau Mazis Chambertin qui est le meilleur vin de la cave.

 

Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint Jacques 2005 : 16/20
Mazis Chambertin Grand Cru 2005 : 16/20
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2005 : 15,5/20
Gevrey Chambertin Les Corvées 2005 : 15/20
Gevey Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux 2005 : 15/20
Morey Siant Denis 2005 : 14,5/20

 

Guide Hachette des vins 2008
Une sélection de 6500 meilleurs producteurs de France

 

Bourgogne Cuvée Fine Sélection 2005
2000 bouteilles produites sur 0,37 ha.
Couleur d'atout, comme on dit au bridge. Intense et profonde.
Un Bourgogne rouge sorti d'une cave de Gevrey ne joue pas au bel indifférent ! Arômes complexes (café, cuir, fruits noirs) demeurant discrets. De la chair et du muscle. Il est équilibré, complet mais on l'attendra un peu (2 ou 3 ans) avec profit.