Domain Tortochot, Owner in Gevrey Chambertin, Burgundy
Domain Tortochot in Gevrey Chambertin in Burgundy

2018 vintage


burghound.com Allen Meadows 1er Trimestre 2021


Domaine Gabriel Tortochot (Gevrey-Chambertin)

 

2018

Bourgogne - Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection

red

87

2018

Chambertin Grand Cru

red

94

2018

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

red

93

2018

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

red

93

2018

Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux” 1er

red

92

2018

Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”

red

90

2018

Gevrey-Chambertin «Les Corvées»

red

89

2018

Gevrey-Chambertin "Les Jeunes Rois"

red

89

2018

Gevrey-Chambertin «Lavaut St Jacques» 1er

red

92

2018

Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

red

93

2018

Morey Saint Denis

red

88
2018

Morey St Denis “1er - Cuvée Renaissance” 1er

red

91

2018

Morey St Denis “Aux Charmes” 1er

red

91


Chantal Tortochot, who directs this biologically farmed 11 ha domaine that is now ECO certified, and who has done so since 1997, briefly described the 2018 growing season as one that “had certain similarities with the 2019 season but with one major difference, which is to say that the spring was extremely wet, in fact 2.5 times greater than normal. While a problem at the time, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise because without that extra water, it’s not entirely certain that we wouldn’t have had another 2003 on our hands in terms of sunburned and baked fruit. Not completely surprisingly given the subsequent warm weather, we did have to fight off a serious attack of mildew but when the summer arrived with its very dry and hot conditions, the mildew dried up. There was a generous fruit set and the warm conditions allowed a large crop to properly mature. We picked from the 3rd of September and brought in relatively high yields, at least for us as they were in the 45 to 50 hl/ha range. I chose to use around 25% whole clusters for all the wines and thankfully I had no particular issues with the vinifications. During the élevage the wines saw varied percentages of new wood which is to say 10 to 15% for the villages, 25 to 30% for the 1ers and 60 to 100% for the grands crus. Stylistically, the wines are definitely ripe and marked by the warmth of the growing season yet they manage to stay fresh and balanced plus they should age for a very long time for those who have the patience as there is plenty of structure to do so.” The Tortochot 2018s were bottled between November 2019 and March 2020. Note that the Tortochot wines are generally relatively old school in terms of style and structure though they do evidence noticeable wood when the wines are young.

2018 Bourgogne – Pinot Noir Cuvée Fine Sélection: A notably floral is comprised of pretty red berries and soft earth wisps. The delicious middle weight flavors possess an appealing mouthfeel and very good complexity in the context of what is typical for the genre. This attractive effort would be a good choice for a house red plus it should drink well early. 87/2022+

2018 Morey St. Denis: (mostly from Clos Solon). This is expressive and pretty with its array of red currant, spice and a floral note. The supple, round and delicious middle weight flavors that possess better volume and punch, all wrapped in a sneaky long finale. I like the balance, and this too should drink well early on. 88/2023+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Jeunes Rois”: (from Brochon). A slightly more deeply pitched nose blends both red and blue pinot fruit with those of lavender, spice and warm earth. The supple, delicious and more vibrant medium weight flavors possess better depth and focused power on the more obviously structured finale. This is a very good Gevrey villages and worth considering. 89/2026+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Corvées”: (from a .86 ha parcel). A more restrained and equally deeply pitched nose combines notes of poached plum, dark currant, the sauvage and newly turned earth. Here too there is evident power to the bigger and more muscular medium-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the sneaky long finish. This isn’t refined but offers plenty of Gevrey character and this too is worthy of consideration. 89/2028+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Champerrier Vieilles Vignes”: (from a .46 ha parcel). This is the first wine to display any appreciable reduction and here it’s enough to blur the distinctions of what appears to be very ripe fruit. There is a lovely sense of underlying tension to the very rich, concentrated and velvety flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also buffers the firm, serious and youthfully austere finish that flashes a touch of rusticity. This is very 2018 in style but offers excellent depth and persistence. Patience strongly suggested. 90/2028+

2018 Morey St. Denis “Aux Charmes”: (from a .23 ha parcel). Elegant and even airy aromas of ripe red currant, lavender and soft floral nuances are trimmed in just enough wood to mention. The delicious, intense and attractively textured medium weight flavors possess a caressing mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the youthfully austere finish that is more structured than it usually is as this will need all of a decade to arrive at its peak though it should be reasonably approachable after only 5ish years. Good stuff and worth a look. 91/2028+

2018 Morey St. Denis “1er – Cuvée Renaissance”: (from Clos Baulet and Clos des Ormes). This isn’t quite as aromatically elegant, but it is more complex with its blend of mostly red berries and spice elements that include more floral nuances. There is a bit more volume to the delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that flash good power and punch on the more structured and saline-inflected finish. This too is really quite good though in this case it will need a few more years of cellaring before it will be approachable. 91/2030+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Lavaut St. Jacques”: (from a .64 ha parcel). A cooler, more restrained and more deeply pitched nose features notes of newly turned earth, underbrush, the sauvage and wild dark berries. There is excellent size, weight and muscle to the very rich yet well-detailed bigger-bodied flavors that display even better power on the youthfully austere and ever-so-mildly rustic finale. This is very LSJ in character and a wine to consider if you have the patience to cellar it for at least a decade. 92/2033+

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin “Les Champeaux”: (from a .81 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines). A spicier but even more restrained nose combines notes of red and dark currant fruit with those of rose lavender, violet and game. This is also quite ripe but there is a lovely sense of freshness to the concentrated, muscular and richer medium weight flavors that possess a seductive mouthfeel while delivering fine length on the relatively powerful and sappy finish. This is an interesting wine texturally as the mid-palate is plump and round yet the finish is serious and mildly austere. Patience again advised. 92/2033+

2018 Charmes-Chambertin: (from .57 ha parcel in Charmes proper). A cool, pure and equally fresh nose isn’t quite so deeply pitched with plenty of earth and humus characters on the red currant, cassis and lavender-scented aromas that are also trimmed in just enough wood to notice. The mouthfeel is relatively refined thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the dense, vibrant and bigger-bodied flavors that conclude in a lingering and ever-so-mildly austere finale. This is lovely and very well-balanced plus it should also age extremely well. 93/2033+

2018 Mazis-Chambertin: (from .42 ha parcel in Mazis-Haut). Moderate wood frames a much more sauvage-inflected nose that speaks mainly of red and dark currant with pungent earth and soft spice wisps. There is outstanding volume to the rich, enveloping and muscular large-scaled flavors that display excellent power and drive on the austere, serious and built-to-age finale. This is impressive and a wine that should amply reward long-term keeping. 93/2035+

2018 Chambertin: (from a .39 ha parcel; 100% new wood). Here the wood treatment isn’t subtle, though neither does it overshadow the very cool red and dark berry fruit aromas that are laced with plenty of earth, spice and pretty floral nuances. There is excellent power and muscle to the broad-shouldered flavors that brim with both dry extract and minerality on the super-saline finish that goes on and on and where the only nit is a touch of warmth. This is also very much built-to-age though it is somewhat less youthfully austere than it usually is. In two words, very promising. 94/2035+

2018 Clos de Vougeot: (from a .21 ha parcel). Discreet wood sets off reasonably fresh and ripe aromas of plum, various red berries, earth and a trace of underbrush character. The equally ripe, rich and full-bodied flavors possess an attractively textured mouthfeel thanks to the abundant sap that also buffers the bold, robust and powerful finish that displays impressive length. Once again, patience required as this is built to age for several decades though it’s not so backward that it couldn’t be approached after 8 to 10 years. 93/2035+



Jeannie Cho Lee (MW)


She is a Hong Kong bases Korean American wine critic and master of wine.The first etnic Asian to achieve the accreditation .She was 25 th on Decanter 's Power list 2013 in wine influencers.

Grand Cru Chambertin 2018 - 94
Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin 2018 - 94
Grand Cru charmes Chambertin 2018 - 93
Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 2018 - 93
Gevrey 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2018 - 92
Morey st Denis 2018 - 90
Morey 1er Cru Aux Charmes 2018 - 92
Gevrey Chambertin Champerrier 2018 - 92



Inside Burgundy
- Jasper Morris (MW)


Grand Cru Chambertin 93/100
Gevrey 1er Cru Les Champeaux 90/100
Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 89/100
Gevrey Chambertin Les Corvees 87/100
Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin 92/100


Vinous - Neal Martin - January 2020


All these wines of 2018 have been tasted in London in January 2020.

Chambertin Grand Cru 94
Gevrey 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques 91
Mazis Chambertin Grand cru 91
Gevrey 1er cru les Champeaux 90
Morey 1er Cru Aux Charmes 88
Morey St Denis 88


2018 Chambertin Grand Cru
:

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very refined and elegant bouquet with pure red fruit mixed with sous-bois and wilted rose petals. The palate is very harmonious on the entry with a fine bead of acidity and caressing tannins. A touch of balsamic infuses the plush red fruit on the silky textured finish. It is not as sophisticated as a Rousseau Chambertin (heaven forbid!) however one could argue that this is cut from a similar cloth. Drink : 2023-2042

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru
:

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru offers attractive brambly black fruit mixed with truffle and sage on the nose. This is well focused and delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit laced with spice, a pinch of white pepper with a fine grip on the finish. Worth seeking out. Drink : 2023-2035

2018 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru :

The 2018 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a high-toned, showy bouquet with red plum, raspberry coulis and orange rind scents, a touch of Indian ink emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a fine bead of acidity with a muscular finish that will hopefully muster more finesse with time. Drink : 2024-2038

2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru :
The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru has a delightful bouquet with red cherry, crushed strawberry and light sous-bois aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, juicy and generous with blood orange and a smear of marmalade towards the finish that perhaps does not quite deliver the complexity promised by the aromatics. Otherwise, this is a fine Champeaux. Drink : 2022-2033

2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru :
The 2018 Morey Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru has a straightforward and open-knit bouquet that does not make a huge leap over the Village Cru. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, dark berry fruit laced with black tea, with a simple, easy-going finish that needs more grip. Drink : 2023-2030

2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Village :
The 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Village has a rather high-toned bouquet that calms down with aeration to reveal vivacious dark cherry and bergamot aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, firm grip and a solid, quite sinewy finish. Give it two to four years in bottle. Drink : 2023-2030





Jancis Robinson MW
- January 2020


All these wines have been tasted in London in January 2020 by Jancis Robinson.

Aux Charmes Premier Cru 2018 Morey-St-Denis
:

Bottled. Aromas are both red-fruited and more savoury. Ripe cherries. Lively and juicy on the palate, definite tannins just right for the depth of fruit. Has the pretty fruit and floral notes as well as the peppery quality of Morey. Moreish, moderate length. Drink 2023-2028 - 16.5


Grand Cru 2018 Mazis-Chambertin
:

Mid crimson. Delightfully fragrant with sweet, fresh red-cherry fruit and a touch of peppery spice. Juicy, mouth-watering and moreish but blind I would have put it at premier not grand cru. Gentle chewy tannins. Harmonious. Drink 2025-2033 - 17


2018 Morey-St-Denis
:

Bottled. Transparent cherry red. Not the most expressive nose but discreetly convincing. Slightly simple red-cherry fruit on the palate with rather milder Morey spice and energy than some. Tannins rather dominate the fruit at this point. And the acidity is yet to be integrated. Drink 2025-2035 - 16

Les Corvées 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin :

Bottled. Another relatively pale wine from this domaine, but the colour is certainly bright. Smells of chestnuts. Lots of acidity and some rather chunky fruit. A good effort but not thrilling. Slightly dry, rustic tannins. Drink 2024-2034 - 16

Lavaut St Jacques Premier Cru 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin :

Bottled. Bright crimson. Powerful autumn mulch aromas. Then very glorious panoply of ripe – but not overripe – fruit flavours on the palate. Almost spookily sweet and approachable. I feel I could enjoy this with dinner tonight. Not ridiculously overpriced in a Burgundy context. Real punch and grip to this wine. But there is clearly lots of fine tannin underneath which may well eventually make their presence felt.. Drink 2025-2038 - 17

Champeaux Premier Cru 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin :

Bottled. Rich, broad fruit on the nose. Smooth and almost soft. Relatively approachable in terms of the fruit but, again from this domaine, the acidity is not perfectly integrated. Slightly drying finish. Drink 2022-2032 - 16

Grand Cru 2018 Clos de Vougeot :

Fairly pale for a grand cru. Neat and focused on the nose. Then just a tad sweet and simple on the palate with the alcohol standing out a bit. It should all shake down eventually. Bitter red-cherry flavours. Fine tannins. Drink 2027-2040 - 17

Grand Cru 2018 Chambertin :

Even Tortochot’s Chambertin is quite pale! Nose is just a little smudgy. And the acidity sticks out quite a bit. There is some weight here but I suspect it might suffer in a line-up of Chambertins from grander growers. Hint of red cough sweets on the end. Pretty light and fresh for a grand cru! The Lavaut St-Jacques is the wine to go for from this domaine, I think. Really rather light. Drink 2028-2040 - 17


Domaine Tortochot - 12 rue de l'Eglise - 21220 Gevrey-Chambertin - Tél. (+33)3 80 34 30 68
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